Our great times in both Nomad camps were the result of the kind, efficient and charming staff…many of whom we never saw. Since we were the only guests in camp we asked Sarah if we could eat dinner with the whole staff – this idea quickly evolved into we would try local cuisine which involved us buying a goat…no, a large goat….they would BBQ it and we’d have a party!
There was a brief – very brief – discussion that Liz and Dick would have the honour of killing the goat. We managed to avoid even meeting the poor creature.
When we returned from our night drive the crew was assembled, our table was set beautifully under the stars and dinner was ready (we think a little overdone since we were late)
It is notable that it took 18 people to look after the two of us!
The goat and its liver were spit roasted over an open fire
The goat was served with ugali (boiled corn mash), beans, tomato salad and a local green like spinach.
Our only regret is that we and the staff ate at separate tables under the stars. (they prefer to eat standing up we were told). There was some suggestion that the guys were offended by Richard drenching tabasco on otherwise perfect goat!
We are obligated to comment on the food. Having lived with Felix for 10 days we learned – much to our surprise – that unlike other tropical regions (Mexico/Caribbean/India/SE Asia) Eastern Africa does not have a taste for hot, highly spiced food. They love bland. Ugali is boiled corn meal – very polenta like and rice is served plain. Vegetables are boiled or raw – beans are really good – after dousing with tabasco.
As for meat – as Felix described it “we love the gristle and the fat and the tough parts”. They certainly do.
They’re clearly not wrong, but we wouldn’t base a tour of East Africa on the cuisine. Felix would join us for breakfast and dinner, but when we had lunch in camp he preferred to eat with the staff. Because there was just Liz and Dick in camp we had a lot of leftovers. We assumed that they’d get eaten by staff, but Sarah told us that generally the guys didn’t prefer our style of food so it was largely trashed. We hope to correspond further with Sarah on this issue closest to our hearts and midriffs.
And then, very sadly, a last picture with Felix and “the truck” and off to the airport
And a final wave as we board our single engine prop with its lady pilot, other tourists and a young woman with a medical emergency. Take off from the gravel strip – so many mixed symbols. One more view of the Serengeti
As we fly we pass over our alkaline lake with the flamingos, the Ngorongoro rim, crater wall and the road we drove 10 days ago into the Serengeti
Now – off to Rwanda and the gorillas – Mount Kilimanjaro says goodbye