Back to real time after our Osamah diversion!
Bashar meets us at the Amman airport (behind security as was the case in Cairo and he arranges our visa). It's early and our hotel room is not yet available so he wisely suggests we stop at "Bethany Beyond the Jordan" on the way to the Dead Sea (we had planned to visit it the next day but he felt it would make that day less crowded - good plan!).
We drive down to the Dead Sea - 1,300 feet below sea level. The Jordanian soldiers at the checkpoints have a more efficient edge. We won't be offering them any bribes. Passports are shown as Bashar performs a ritual that will be common over the coming days. The Humvee's with 30 and 50 cal machine guns do set a tone that we're not used to.
The roadside merchants' offerings are a wonderful palette of hues. It is very windy and cold with snow in the forecast. Welcome to the torrid desert!
Bethany Beyond the Jordan is where John the Baptist baptized Jesus. The site was discovered in the mid 90s after Jordan's peace treaty with Israel caused the areas along the river to be cleared of mines.
Long filed Sunday School learning is accessed. The Jordan River turns out to be just a tiny stream. Much to our surprise we find ourselves 20 feet from Israel across this narrow divider. There is a small contingent of other tourists but we expected there would be some devoted Christians incredibly moved by standing at this significant location. But, no overt praying or apparent awe. We buy some bottles of Jordan water for our religious friends and wander through the small church at the site. Armed guards are everywhere. Love the shot of the priest with the cell phone
We both found this site very moving - despite our lack of religious orientation - highly recommend visiting it if you're in Jordan.
Then off to the Dead Sea Kempinski Hotel - part of a phalanx of new developments on the Dead Sea. Again heavy entry security at the gate and metal detectors/hand luggage searches at the door.
The hotel is out of Architectural Digest - incredible design with infinity pools, structured reveals, delicious appointments. We sit on the terrace staring across the Dead Sea at the West Bank/Palestine/Israel/Occupied Territories - the nomenclature here is very complex.
(lots of hotel photos follow!)
Our room continues the design elegance. There is a chair that we consider hiding in our suitcase. Light fixtures are high tech and the bathroom is a triumph of chrome, tile and marble. We're like rubes from the country - playing with knobs, switches and buttons
The view from our balcony over the infinity pool and the Dead Sea is Travelogue quality. We seem to be two of very few guests, but then it's cold. No great desire to do a few laps in the pool and we (perhaps foolishly) decide not to strip down for a float on the saline Dead Sea
The only thing missing was an in pool bar!
A few more pics - breakfast the next morning was delightful overkill - an omelet bar, mid east bar (should have had that - drats it was missing the next morning) and an incredible array of sweets, fruit, honey, meat, etc etc)
OK! Back to travel discussions!!!
Does this comment go to Liz and Richard? I'm going to Jordan for a week on June 11 motivated by your fabulous website. I will have three nights at the Dead Sea Kempinski, then two at the Petra Movenpick and two at the Madaba Inn. I'm a 66 year old single female (youthful, gorgeous :-),and your adventures inspired me to hire a driver and guide and replicate them. After a week in Jordan, I'm being driven to Damascus for a month of working with Iraqi refugees. Thank you for capturing my imagination with your wonderful photos and narrative. Many more happy travels to you. Sandy Lambert sjlambert@cox.net
Posted by: Sand Lambert | May 20, 2008 at 10:36 AM
I am jordanian,I am very pleased that you spent some good time in my country.I uaually stay inthe movepick or merriot,but after reading your comments and seeing the photos ,i will give Kempensky a try.just booked for the weekend there,hope my stay will be as pleasant as yours
Posted by: nabil aqaileh | March 06, 2009 at 04:52 AM
Oh my, your pictures are lovely. The Kempinsky Hotel looks like it's very worthy of adding an extra day or two to my travel plans. Entertaining writing style... thanks for the glimpse of your journey.
Sandi from Fodor's
Posted by: Sandi | April 07, 2009 at 07:23 PM