2013returntoitaly

We rent a car

We rent a cute little Fiat Panda Diesel.  It comes pre-dented, which eases the parking worries.  In Lucca town parking is a contact sport

Off we go.  The Italian main roads are excellent and the scenery is good.  Snow on the peaks but mild down where we are.  This will change later.

       

A medieval bridge demands a stop (called the Devil’s Bridge) was built in 1100 and served pilgrims and trade

                            

Then we go up.  The world changes.  Signs announce that there is a penalty for not having tire chains in your car.  Chains??!!!&  The road gets very narrow with more twists and switchbacks than a Republican congressman.

Note that the width of the road is “one car”.  Meeting oncoming cars and especially trucks and, for added fun, around a blind corner – was a therapeutic adrenalin generator.

                        

And two short videos

They dispense with foolish extravagances like guardrails

We arrive at Collodi, the birthplace of the author of Pinocchio (Carlo Collodi).  There’s a small theme park and many tourist shops.  We continue to drive….especially after two large dogs express their desire that we leave

               

Back home we say hello to our Carnevale clown and retired to a favourite restaurant, all’Olivo.  We’ve compressed two visits into this entry

        

They offer a Chef’s surprise antipasti that can be wonderful….and never disappointing.  Below some examples (sorry out of focus).

• rolled mushroom crepe
• eggplant marinara
• black rice in gorgonzola sauce
• spelt on beans with bacon curls

          

Then, the most unattractive looking but best tasting pasta we’ve had in years…..tagliatelli with artichokes and ham. All’Olivo makes incredible pasta – it melts – but you can chew it.  It has flavour and texture on its own, but is totally subservient to the sauce.

            

Liz chooses mini-gnocchi with fish and tomatoes.  Liz regards gnocchi as equivalent to Manna….this serving would have made Moses happy

A starter of fish plus…….(we forget and didn’t take notes) on a base of creamed potatoes redefined potato-ness

Scampi on pasta again redefines pasta perfection and Liz chooses Gnocchi again – this time with gorgonzola and radicchio.  Wonderful!

   

Many thanks to the men in the kitchen…..and yes Tamils run the kitchens here too…..as they do all over the world!

 

Road trip to Siena–#1

We like driving and Tuscany is lovely so the next day we set off for a drive and sleepover in Siena.  We swear we’ve been to Siena before, but as will become apparent it must have been the one in Wisconsin. 

Some Tuscan countryside on the way – we need to rent one of those hillside villas with the vineyards one year.

                 

Siena is physically gorgeous.  We take the obligatory photos and abdicate to our craving for pizza

           

The Pizzeria is perfect.  Decor out of an MGM set, fun staff, good pizza and hot sauce that they wouldn’t let us take home……and we had vegetables!

Walking to the main square we pass many of the narrow lanes we love in Italian hilltowns.  While it doesn’t show well in the photos, they are almost vertical – walk down and crawl up.

    

The Campo is the centre of Siena.  Famous for the bareback horse races that are held annually around its perimeter.  It is a wonderful space, lined with cafes and far fewer tourists than one would find in high season

(Liz: Who is that handsome man waiting for me?)

Love the clock – precision was single handed…..hours only

There’s a pretty fountain at the head of the Campo where the pigeons casually water

           

Dickie has an infatuation with the Romulus/Remus images everywhere

       

Next – the Duomo…….

 

Siena #2

The Siena Duomo is a wedding cake of marble and art

              

Inside the opulence continues

                    

Particularly loved the organ pipe rack with its herald of horns

As always we look up and down…..up to a classic dome

And down to some incredible marble inlays.  Should have taken more photos

There is a Sistine Chapel-calibre library.  Incredible ceilings and walls, plus hand illuminated manuscripts in glass cases lining the room

              

The bapistry beneath the church is equally beautiful.  A trip to the crypts was fascinating.  They have had to remove much of the original foundation and insert a new steel structure.  Photos were not allowed…..should have cheated

And in the floor, a reminder who has the winning hand at the end of the game

Liz decided to climb the Tower.  Dickie took a pass.  Pics from the top

(Liz here) I was impressed with myself.  After I got to the top I had a few minutes alone and then heard the rumble of feet coming up the stairs.  A group of high school kids poured into the small viewing area…….gasping and panting for breath.  Hah – I wasn’t even puffing a little!

The staircase is incredibly narrow – and imagine it in high season.  These are up and down stairs.  You have to pass ascending/descending bodies.  If pressed you can leave via the window.

  

We really enjoyed Sienna…..equally enjoyed getting home to Lucca and a favourite restaurant.  Some street scenes on our walk home from the parking lot will hopefully capture why we love living here